ULTIMATE GUIDE FOR AMALFI COAST: RAVELLO, AMALFI, PRAIANO & POSITANO
The Amalfi Coast had been on my travel list forever, but somehow it still exceeded every expectation. From lemon trees everywhere, cliffside hikes to long lunches by the sea, beach club visits, sunset dinners, and endless limoncello spritzes - this trip honestly felt like stepping into a dolce vita movie. And what made it even more special? I celebrated my birthday there, overlooking the sparkling sea with the most beautiful view imaginable.
We visited the Amalfi coast in May, and I can highly recommend this time of year. The weather was already warm enough for beach days and boat trips, everything was beautifully green and blooming, and while it was definitely busy (especially because of a holiday weekend), it still was not as packed as I heard it is in the peak summer season.
Getting Around the Amalfi Coast
One thing I’m very happy about: we decided NOT to rent a car or Vespa. Honestly, parking on the Amalfi Coast looked incredibly stressful and expensive, and the roads are very narrow and crowded. Instead, we arrived and traveled around completely by public transport and boats & it worked perfectly for us. The ferries are honestly the best way to move between towns (you can get the tickets directly at the harbour and check the schedule online at the Travelmar website). Not only is it easier, but the coastline looks absolutely stunning from the water. Every boat ride felt like a sightseeing tour.
Hiking the Amalfi Coast
One of the biggest surprises of the trip was how incredible the hiking was. We did the famous Path of the Gods hike starting from Nocelle, and I can only say: do it. The coastal views along the trail are absolutely breathtaking and some of the best we saw during the whole trip. We also loved the Lemon Path from Maiori to Minori and up toward Ravello. Walking through lemon groves with views over the sea felt like the Amalfi Coast experience everyone dreams about. If you enjoy active travel even a little bit, definitely add hiking days to your itinerary.
Things I Would Recommend
Visit in May or early June instead of peak summer
Reserve hotels FAR in advance
Use ferries and public transport instead of renting a car
Stay multiple nights instead of rushing through towns
Plan time for hiking
Book restaurants ahead for sunset dinners
Try as many limoncello spritzes as possible
The Amalfi Coast is romantic, dramatic, beautiful, chaotic, delicious, and unforgettable all at once. It’s one of those places that somehow feels even better in real life than in photos. Of course it is more expensive than other areas in Italy (especially also compared to the closeby Naples, check my guide for visiting bella Napoli here), but for sure worth it & I already know we’ll be back.
Lots of love,
Magda
MY FAV SPOTS on the amalfi COASTs
La Gavitella - Restaurant & Beach (Praiano)
Spent the most incredible day at La Gavitella in Praiano - easily one of the most special lunch spots on the Amalfi Coast. Hidden away in a peaceful little bay, it feels far from the busy crowds and has the perfect relaxed beach club atmosphere with unreal sea views all day long. We stayed for hours enjoying the food, sunshine, and the warmest hospitality from their amazing team. The seafood dishes were exceptional, especially the famous Antipasto Gavitella and the local squid “Tubetti” pasta, which was honestly one of the best pasta dishes we tried in Italy. And don’t leave without trying their parmigiana and tiramisu - both were unforgettable. They even offer a complimentary boat shuttle from Positano. Already dreaming about coming back for their cooking class next time!
Agricola Fore Porta (Amalfi)
After we walked from Maiori all the way to Amalfi (along the lemon path) we had lunch in this beautiful agricola. You need to reserve upfront (Silvia is texting you as well to make sure you’re finding it, it’s around 30’ from Amalfi). Especially their homemade drinks were so tasty & we loved their pasta too. Really a great experience off the touristy paths.
Il Fornillo (Positano)
Lovely dinner with a view in the heart of Positano, we really loved our evening here! The team is super kind and makes sure you’re having the best evening. The menu includes tasty authentic Italian plates and we loved the paccheri with the fish of the day as well as the seafood pasta. Make sure to reserve your spot upfront as it’s very popular!
Lemon Point Positano (Nocelle)
We hiked all the way from Positano to this amazing spot in Nocelle and it was so worth it! The owner is the kindest and made his tasty lemon drink for us in a special birthday edition with prosecco and his homemade limoncello. You can enjoy the refreshing drinks on the piazza with a breathtaking view over the coast - highly recommend your visit!!
Ristorante Adamo ed Eva (Positano)
If you’re looking for the best dinner for a special evening you should for sure reserve your table at this amazing restaurant. The view over Positano is simply stunning and the whole experience really extraordinary. We came here for my birthday and had an incredible evening with their delicious pasta & fish parmigiana. Really a night to remember!
Casa e Bottega (Positano)
Located in the heart of Positano this cute shop and cafe is truly making you feel like at home immediately. They are serving high quality breakfast, lunch and drinks such as cappuccino, matcha etc in a beautiful atmosphere. The interior is really inviting with loads of plants and a cozy interior. It can get pretty busy but it’s for sure worth it.
Taverna Buonvicino (Amalfi)
Located right in the center of Amalfi while still being a bit hidden off the tourist path, we really enjoyed our dinner here! The menu includes authentic Italian plates and especially the traditional scialatielli pasta al mare (very typical from the Amalfi coast) was super good! We also loved to sit in the cozy and romantic court, can highly recommend your visit!
Il Chiosco del sentiero degli dei (Nocelle)
If you’re looking for a stop after hiking the path of gods, this cute little spot is highly recommended! We didn’t eat here but you can also get some nice panini etc. The view over the coast and their homemade refreshing lemon drinks (limoncello spritz of course) is really good. There is also a spot outside to fill up your water bottle - perfect on a hot day!
Further spots you should add to your Amalfi list:
Yummy gelato (Positano)
Franco’s bar (Positano)
La Tagliata (Positano)
Ristorante Franchino (Praiano)
Trattoria Da Armandino (Praiano)